Northeast Thailand (Isaan)
“I thought I knew Thailand – Bangkok, the hills, the beaches – and was slightly tired of what I knew. Or more specifically, I was fed up with the countless visitors, and the industries set up to cater for their needs. Isaan proved a breath of fresh air in all senses.” Sasha Bates, Thailand’s Isaan Province: a breath of fresh air by the Mekong, The Daily Telegraph (UK).
This is a region of Thailand more commonly known as Isaan (Isan) and one which is completely overlooked by travellers and largely ignored by the travel industry. The pace of life is generally slow and the lifestyle simple. It is the poorest region of Thailand and arguably home to the happiest and most welcoming people. Isaan borders both Laos and Cambodia with the Mekong River serving as a natural line of demarcation for much of the way.
So why is Isaan ignored and what does it have to offer? Granted it is as landlocked as Laos, but like Laos the mighty Mekong River flows through it. It has national parks, stunningly beautiful vistas, a sedative pace of life and a unique, flavourful cuisine. This is the land of sparsely populated golf courses, low density roads ideal for mountain biking and motorcycle touring and a positive Eden for those seeking the ultimate retreat.
Remnants of the Khmer Empire are scattered liberally around the region like jewels on a crown and the discovery of an ancient burial site dating back more than 5,000 years, changed totally archaeologists understanding of the Bronze Age in Southeast Asia. The region also hosts several national parks and is a gateway into Vientiane (Laos) on its northern border and Pakse (Southern Laos) on its eastern border.
Isaan’s greatest highlight is undoubtedly its food from barbequed chicken to Som Tam; a fresh green papaya salad which is gloriously fresh to the palette and head-spinningly spicy to swallow. Barbequed fish awash with zinging marinades, larb and nam tok are also highlights of the Isaan cuisine but most famous of all is the cow neow or sticky rice, the ubiquitous accompaniment. You will find elements of Vietnamese cuisine in Isaan cooking and certainly strong influences from Laos, adopted by way of evolution and adapted (with ample use of chilly) to taste.
Isaan is also the home of several unique festivals, most steeped in history and all a photographers’ dream playground. The Bun Bungfai (Rocket Festival) is a fertility rite originating in pre-Buddhist times. Head to Yasothon province for the full action but do remember that this festival is an amateur fireworks display in which the rockets are bodged together with range in mind: Duck! The Silk Festival in Khon Kaen is a spectacle and promotes local handicrafts while the Candle Festival is meaningfully oversized.
The phenomenon of the Naga Fireballs which rise from the depths of the Mekong River each year is bewildering and draws large crowds from all over Thailand while up-river in Loei province you will find the annual Phi Ta Khon Festival that makes Buddhist merit and calls for rain whilst reflecting the local Isaan people’s belief in ghosts and spirits. Further south is the Elephant Roundup festival in Surin if you find elephants coaxed into playing football a source of great amusement.
If you are into big nightlife, Isaan is not for you. It is a region where traditions are upheld and the lifestyle remains untainted by the ill-effects of mass tourism seen in some of Thailand’s southern provinces. If you are looking to totally relax, amble through sleepy towns, do some mountain biking, play golf, go trekking or simply revitalise within the privacy and embrace of a destination retreat then you would do well to put Isaan towards the top of your list of options.
Isaan is also an ideal overland stepping-stone into Laos offering you the opportunity to walk into the past before returning again to the future.
Getting There
You can get to Isaan by plane, train or car. The quickest and most expensive is obviously the plane which flies from Bangkok to Khon Kaen, Nakhon Phanom, Sakon Nakhon, Ubon Ratchathani and Udon Thani and ZiZ Asia can arrange an airport welcome on arrival and transfer to your accommodation.
By car, with a little time on your hands, is a wonderful way to travel as you are at liberty to make stops and diversions at your will. It is by far and away the best way to see Thailand beyond the tourist trail, meet real locals, enjoy local hospitality and benefit from the very best experience. ZiZ Asia provides a choice of cars and vans that can be chartered complete with driver for Isaan trips.
The train journey is long but regular with services from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani (via Nakhon Ratchasima, Buriram, Surin, Si Saket and other stations along the way) and Nong Khai (via Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, etc). Best tackled in a sleeper.
Next: East Thailand
Back: Central Thailand
Further Reading
- ISAAN : Forgotten Provinces Of Thailand
- Thailand (Country Guide)
- Frommer’s Thailand (Frommer’s Complete)
- Culture Shock! Thailand: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette
- Fodor’s Thailand, 11th Edition: With Side Trips to Cambodia & Laos (Full-Color Gold Guides)
