Laos Overview
History of Laos
The colonials of French Indochina used to say that the Vietnamese planted the rice, the Cambodians watched it grow while the Laotians listened to it grow. Granted limited self governance by the French in 1949 and attaining full sovereignty in 1953, Laos careered into a state of political turmoil, facing imminent civil war as three political factions fought for control:
1. The communist Pathet Lao rebels lead by Prince Souphanouvong in the northern provinces
2. The right-wing government of Boun Oumneutral in Vientiane, recognised by America
3. The deposed neutralist government of Souvanna Phouma who were supported by the Soviet Union and her allies.
By the late 60’s and early 70’s Pathet Lao had gathered momentum and controlled North and Eastern Laos which would quickly extend to two thirds of Laotian territory but only one third of the population until they finally gained total control in 1975.
Meanwhile, the country had descended into hell. Embroiled in the Vietnam War because of what had become known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a major supply line into Northern Vietnam, and the ever-strengthening ties between communist Laos and the Northern Vietnamese, the USA commenced a secret war in Laos, recruiting Hmong tribesmen and tons of aerial ordinance to meet their objectives.
Today, Laos holds the unenviable accolade as being the most heavily bombed place in the world. Between 1963 and 1974, the US dropped more than two million tons of “Cluster Bombs” on Laos which equates to one bomb every eight minutes.
With a rocket shaped outer-shell, Cluster Bombs contain 600 ‘bombies’ and each of these bombies harbour hundreds of ball bearings. It is estimated that about a third failed to explode which means that there are 30 million bombs lying on or beneath the ground in Laos even today. Obviously this is not the only legacy, but cluster bombs are designed to kill not maim and sadly it is often inquisitive children who fall victim.
Modern Day Laos
There is still not much modern about modern day Laos although it is poised to follow the same path taken by Vietnam and Cambodia in terms of tourism development, albeit under a different guise. Travellers began to creep into Laos during the 1990’s and Luang Prabang particularly is now establishing its place in mainstream tourism under the watchful eye of UNESCO and with it a diversity of hotels and restaurants to choose from.
The difference between Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia and the speed with which they reinvent themselves as tourism magnets is the pace; Laos will get there sometime as they meander and amble along on their journey, casually sampling the good and the bad of modern day western society along the way, courtesy of the ever increasing tide of travellers visiting the country.
“Laos is such a mystical place and there are only 6 million of us living in what is a national park . . . Why on earth would we change?” Sinlasone Soumpholphakdy, owner of the trendy Hotel, Sala Prabang.
Landlocked and mountainous, farming continues more or less at subsistence level and Laos remains nonchalantly poor. Following years of war and associated isolation, micro cultures remain intact as does the awe-inspiring and pristine environment. Its people are little changed as well and are warm, friendly and without doubt the most laid-back and chilled in Southeast Asia.
Vientiane; Capital of Laos
Vientiane, the capital of Laos, has already undergone a significant metamorphosis. We first visited Vientiane in 2000 when the “city” could possibly have got away with being labelled a town but more appropriately a village, liberally sprinkled with ornate temples, where the pace of life was slow to stationary.
Shabbily chic remnants from the days of French Indochina lined the dirt roads, some in better repair than the others, while the market place resembled rustically rural Provence complete with the aroma of strong French coffee and freshly baked baguette. A few quintessentially French restaurants served mouth wateringly delicious haute cuisine at prices that would barely get you a croissant in Paris while local dining elevated Thai street food into a gourmet dining experience (which incidentally it is!).
As almost a decade since we first visited Vientiane comes to an end, Vientiane has superficially changed with the beautifully ornate temples in places now juxtaposed against unimaginative concrete eyesores. However it is still caressed by the mighty Mekong River which continues to support a river lifestyle unchanged for decades, nay, centuries.
Previously dilapidated hotels occupying crumbling French colonial villas, mansions and houses have been renovated and re-gentrified to their former glory whilst others have joined their ranks. The choice of French haute cuisine has expanded as has the diversity of bars.
There is still plenty of charm in Vientiane and more than enough to see and do over a few days including stunning temples such as Wat Si Saket which is home to 6,400 Buddha’s and many Stupas. Don’t miss the “morning” market which seems to be open for the entire day and is packed full of local handicrafts, electronics and herbal medicines harvested from the countryside.
Stroll around Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) for a more surreal experience and wryly smile like the locals at Patousay, the Laotian version of the Arc de Triomph, created from concrete supplied by the USA and intended for runway construction.
What Vientiane lacks against her stunningly beautiful sister, Luang Prabang, she makes up for with an international airport, extremely easy overland access from Thailand, sumptuous Cordon Bleu and a sufficient array of attractions and things to do to keep one intrigued and amused. Vientiane is still a near microscopic city and the pace of life remains unchanged showing little intention of increasing the revs anytime soon.
Beyond Vientiane, Laos is largely primitive, undeveloped and untouched wilderness. Rivers wind down through the forested mountains of the north to fuel the Mekong who has cascaded her way through Tibet and China, expending her energies in order to meander through Laos in a befittingly meditative state.
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